/https://tf-cmsv2-smithsonianmag-media.s3.amazonaws.com/filer_public/ee/c5/eec5b8dc-6868-4992-ac69-0f8847d6592f/img_1450.jpg "Scientific Endeavor: The Solitary Struggle to Preserve Species on a Minute Pacific Isle")
In May 2021, two young sea turtle biologists, Brittany Clemans and Lindsey Bull, were exploring Tern Island, a remote landmass located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. During their expedition, they stumbled upon a Hawaiian green sea turtle that had become trapped in a hole in a metal wall. The turtle had lodged herself in while making her way back to the water, with only her front end able to pass through. In her desperate attempts to escape, she had scratched her shell on the rusted steel. Lethargic and facing the threat of the afternoon heat, the turtle’s life was in danger.
Tern Island is situated within the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument in Northwestern Hawaii, the largest protected area in the United States. Covering an expansive 583,000 square miles, this marine monument is teeming with reefs and atolls. Tern Island lies at the northern edge of Lalo, an atoll characterized by a curved reef spanning approximately 20 miles. In the past, Tern Island underwent significant transformations due to storms and tides, allowing birds, seals, and turtles to easily move around its sloping shores. However, in the 1940s, the Navy converted Tern into a stopover for planes traveling between Hawaii and Midway Atoll. They reshaped the island to resemble an aircraft carrier, dredging coral from the shallows, and flattening it into a half-mile-long runway. This process involved the removal of over 55,000 dump trucks’ worth of coral, and the construction of a sea wall encircling most of the island. Unfortunately, this sea wall has become a substantial hazard for the island’s wildlife. After nearly 80 years of exposure to storms, it has become rusted and deteriorated, forming jagged spires and open holes reminiscent of a witch’s fingers or Swiss cheese. This creates entrapment risks for animals attempting to navigate through cuts or holes. Additionally, there are other dangers present, such as crumbling buildings and cracked concrete structures. Tern Island was occupied by the Navy and later the Coast Guard until 1979, leaving behind discarded batteries and electrical equipment that leaked toxic contaminants. Until around a decade ago, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service maintained a permanent field station on Tern Island, where groups of scientists would study and rescue the island’s seabirds, turtles, and seals throughout the year. However, a storm in 2012 caused significant damage to the station’s housing and operations facilities. Since then, only a small team of scientists has ventured to the island during field seasons, often lasting from late spring to early fall, to study sea turtles and seals.
Tern Island and the surrounding area are home to over 300,000 seabirds of 18 different species. Critically endangered Hawaiian monk seals also give birth on its shores, while an array of colorful fish and sharks swim amidst corals as large as La-Z-Boys and kitchen tables. Lalo serves as a crucial nesting site for over 90% of the sea turtles in the Hawaiian Archipelago, which stretches for approximately 1,500 miles. The opportunity to spend time on Tern Island is truly exhilarating, but the work is demanding. Each night during field season, Clemans and Bull would conduct surveys of the island from 9 p.m. to 7 a.m., tirelessly traversing the sandy terrain. Their mission was to locate pregnant female turtles, number them, tag them, and measure them. In the afternoons, they would continue their search for animals in distress. It was during one of these searches that they encountered the trapped female sea turtle. Their rescue efforts required caution, as the powerful flaps from the turtle’s front flippers could cause harm, potentially weighing over 200 pounds. With no immediate rescue options, they managed to lift the turtle onto her right side and gently guide her towards the water. Relieved but still concerned, they understood the possibility of finding her washed up later, her life hanging in the balance. Two hours later, they discovered another turtle, this time lifeless, trapped beneath a rusted sea wall that stood tall above the beach. It appeared that this turtle had attempted to crawl over the edge and fell, nose-diving into the sand and becoming stranded on her back. The sight was disheartening, particularly after witnessing the resilience of turtles traversing great distances to reach the atoll.
By July, Clemans and Bull were working a grueling 80 hours per week. The demanding schedule took its toll. Bull, after enduring long hours without proper rest, had a harrowing accident in the office tent. Tripping over the straps of her backpack, she fell and hit her head on a metal chair before landing on the plywood floor. Already sleep-deprived, she now faced the added challenge of a concussion. It took three days for a research ship to reach her location. During this time, the other biologists carefully monitored her condition, conducting reflex tests and asking her questions. Finally, they were able to transport her to the island of Kauai for medical treatment. Recounting the events to the doctor, Bull emphasized the lack of sleep she had endured for an extended period. In response, the doctor remarked, “That’ll drive you crazy.” I can personally attest to the truth of that statement. After my own time working on the islands of Lalo in 2003, my mental state was profoundly affected.
Growing up in Winona, Minnesota, with a large family, I was accustomed to a crowded household. The prospect of studying sea turtles on a secluded atoll initially perplexed some, wondering what motivated me to pursue such a venture. In truth, after years of sharing limited space with my siblings, the idea of solitude and the opportunity to study these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat appealed to me.
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Jessica Irvine is a tech enthusiast specializing in gadgets. From smart home devices to cutting-edge electronics, Jessica explores the world of consumer tech, offering readers comprehensive reviews, hands-on experiences, and expert insights into the coolest and most innovative gadgets on the market.
